(Photo by Igor Golovniov / SOPA Images/Sipa USA)(Sipa via AP Images)
The discourse surrounding additive-free tequila has reached a fever pitch over the past couple of years. Influencers, liquor stores and casual drinkers alike have flocked to the movement, demanding a modicum of transparency from an industry notoriously tightlipped on words like "glycerin" and "oak extract." The trend has already translated into numbers as consumers trade their old favorites in favor of trendy, additive-free brands. No exaggeration to say that tequila will never be the same again.
But what of the other spirits categories?
The short answer: Yes, additives are everywhere. That should hardly come as a surprise. But rather than simply ask where, we should ask what and why — after all, one's perspective on additives can range everything from a drop of salt to bright-pink bubble gum sweetener.
The biggest difficulty boils down to the designation of origin. While tequila production is limited to a single country overseen by a single regulator, spirits like whiskey, gin and vodka originate from a smorgasbord of regions with divergent laws. In this context, the definition of an "additive" is wildly subjective, varying not only from government to government but also from culture to culture. Categories like spiced rum are centuries-old traditions, defined entirely by their use of sweeteners, herbs and otherwise additive-esque substances. Glycerin-laced whiskey? Not quite a respected custom.
Below, we'll explore the use of additives in whiskey, vodka, gin, rum and mezcal with as much clarity as these knotty laws allow.
Whiskey
Time for a quick trip around the world.
Within America, anything not labeled as a "straight" whiskey is allowed to contain up to 2.5% additives. These can include coloring, sweeteners and flavoring, though the regulations stop short of anything that would be considered an outright flavored product, a la Jack Daniel's Tennessee Honey. Bourbon, however, cannot contain any additives whatsoever — no ifs, and or buts. Regardless of whether it's labeled "straight bourbon" or "bourbon," the only ingredients permitted in a bottle are fermented grain, oak and water.
Scotch allows for the inclusion of a single additive — a caramel coloring agent known as E150a. If you're a whisky lover, this is the ingredient you should familiarize yourself with. Irish whisky, Japanese whisky and American single malt whisky all share the same stipulation surrounding caramel coloring as scotch. E150a can be used to rectify color between different batches and is generally agreed to have no impact on flavor. A vocal subset within the community insists that the agent can alter mouthfeel and bitterness, though expert taste tests have generally indicated the opposite. If you want to come to your own conclusion, check out some confirmed E150a-free brands and conduct a little side-by-side at home.
Last but not least is Canadian whisky, which, in addition to E150a, allows 9.09% additives so long it's restricted to wine, sherry or whisky that's been aged over two years. For other designations of origin, check out your local government's bylaws on whiskey production.
Vodka
One of the enduring myths surrounding vodka is that the spirit must be completely flavorless and odorless. Legally speaking, this stipulation was changed by U.S. officials in 2020, allowing for a degree of distinctive character between brands. Before and after that change, however, additives were always part of the equation.
The three most common additives found in vodka are sugar, glycerin and citric acid. The glycerin added to vodka is much the same as what you'd find inside tequila. The molecule, around 60% to 75% as sweet as sugar, imbues a "smooth" and "full-bodied" mouthfeel to liquor. Many have compared its texture to a splash of syrup. Citric acid, meanwhile, is used to enhance acidity, a helpful trick for masking impurities in alcohol. So long as citric acid makes up less than one gram per liter and glycerin less than two grams per liter, their inclusion need not be disclosed on the label.
These three additives are used in mass-produced vodkas the world over. Though guidelines vary from country to country, rarely if ever will you find these substances explicitly forbidden. In the absence of a robust additive-free vodka movement, consumers more or less just have to take brands at their word when it comes to the three stooges of neutral liquor.
Gin
Gin is a difficult liquor to classify when it comes to additives. Since it's made by infusing botanicals into a base spirit (essentially vodka) following distillation, it could be argued that gin's distinguishing characteristic is nothing but additives. But that argument would be a vast oversimplification. Looking beyond botanicals, we find a variety of definitions laid out by local regulators.
The E.U., the largest region of origin for commercially available gins, allows for the inclusion of approved flavorings, sweeteners and colors in anything labeled as a "gin" or "distilled gin." So long as the predominant flavor is juniper, brands are allowed to add any quantity of approved natural and artificial ingredients to these products.
Guidelines are much more stringent when it comes to London dry gin. Spirits in this category are forbidden from using coloring and may contain no more than 0.1 grams of sugar per liter in the final product. If you're looking for the closest thing to a confirmed additive-free gin, London is the way.
Popular varieties like Old Tom, Plymouth and Contemporary have no legal definition in the E.U. or beyond.
Rum
It is often said that there are no rules governing rum production. The exact opposite is true. There are dozens, nay hundreds of region-specific guidelines laying the brickwork for what rum can and should look like, distillers aiming their roads in a spiderweb of different directions. The difficulty lies in examining the distinctions.
Within the U.S., regulations permit the inclusion of 2.5% "blending materials," typically the same medley of sweeteners, colorings and mouthfeel enhancers found in other spirits. Across the pond, the E.U. allows for 20 grams of sweetening product per liter and the use of caramel so long as it's limited to coloring agents and not flavoring.
Travel to the Caribbean and you'll find a patchwork of legislation loosely presided over by the CARICOM Rum Standard. Rum produced and bottled in Barbados, Jamaica and Martinique generally forbids additives, though you will find generous exceptions for rum produced locally and bottled elsewhere. While Cuba forbids the use of "scents, aromas, artificial additives and extracts," accounts vary on whether this is actually enforced in practice. For rums produced in the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico, best to check the label.
The loosest category is Spanish-style rum, a legally undefined umbrella term for spirits distilled across the Caribbean and South America. In addition to conventional additives, Spanish-style rum is known to include sherry and vermouth in the final blend. These additions, however, are a defining quirk of the style, not an unsavory modern concession.
None of these guidelines apply to the worlds of flavored or spiced rums, both of which definitely contain additives, without qualification. For the definitive deep dive into all the above, check out Rum Revelations' excellent list breaking down the added sugar content in hundreds of recognizable brands.
Mezcal
Though mezcal is often considered the older, rawer and dare we say more "authentic" version of tequila, it too can contain additives.
On the one hand, there are non-agave ingredients used in the production of mezcal de pechuga. These mezcals, typically inspired by regionality and seasonality, can include a variety of produce, grains and proteins that are added directly to the still during the second or third round of distillation. Though chicken and turkey breast are the most famous examples, the possibilities are nearly limitless. La Luna once uncorked a "Florida-inspired mezcal" distilled with alligator meat, orange blossoms, coconuts, platanos and calamansi. Paquera recently rolled out an expression that contained wagyu beef drippings.
On the other hand, there are the more conventional additive-free suspects — substances added post-distillation that may or may not pack a nasty punch. The Mezcal Regulatory Council allows the inclusion of 60 grams per liter of "abocantes con" in mezcal, including examples like the maguey worm, damiana, lemon and mango, according to the relevant bylaw, NOM 070. However, notorious tequila additives like glycerin and oak extract do not appear to be permitted in the spirit.
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